Today's enamel jewelry has a beautiful finish and comes in hundreds of
wonderful colors. Recently the "new enamel" has emerged; bright epoxy
paints that embrace the color
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spectrum and can turn a plain piece of pewter jewelry into something stunningly original.
True enamel jewelry making involves fusing colored, powdered glass to
metals using heat. In the 1950s my parents kept a small kiln in the old
coal cellar of our house where they created masterpieces in ashtrays and
screw-on earrings. (Both
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of them were artists, but this was just a side hobby) I still have some
lovely examples of copper earrings with intricately patterned enameling
in warm colors and designs.
Perhaps the epoxy paints used to produce so many of today's masterpieces
shouldn't strictly be called enamel, but at first glance there isn't
much difference. Purists may differ, but materials used to produce
various effects do alter through time.
I find it fascinating that some
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work has been found as early as the Hellenistic epoch, a period of time
from Alexander the Great's death in 323 B.C. to 146 B.C. when the
Romans conquered Greece. By the end of this time period, enameling and
use of colored stones in jewelry making was becoming more popular than
work done by the gold and silversmiths of the day. I think people of all
times have loved color, and the brilliance of a ruby or even an earring
inset with colorful but inexpensive enamel began competing with
cheap Pandora Necklaces the precious metals for the eye of the rich shopper centuries ago.
The 5th century Byzantine world saw the creation of very ornate jewelry.
Enameling was liberally used in the designs, along with peals and
precious stones. There was much beautiful jewelry created during this
time period, all the way up to 1204 when Constantinople, capital of the
Byzantine empire fell during the Crusades and so many gorgeous objects
of art were melted down for their worth in gold and silver alone.
The Anglo-Saxons of the 7th century created some intricate
cloisonné enamel work, much of it polychrome, meaning "many
colors". These were detailed
buy Pandora Bracelets designs reminiscent of Celtic knot work and must have been incredibly time consuming.
Moving forward into the early Renaissance, enamel continued as a
favorite medium for many jewelry artists. I'm looking at a photo of a
lovely enamel pendant in gold and blue depicting a branch with many-hued
birds. It seems to be a locket, although the shape is irregular so it
certainly didn't hold a painted portrait. Perhaps it was used to keep
herbs or gemstones inside.
Wherever artists create jewelry, enamel will be found. From detailed
cloisonné work in ancient China to today's epoxy enamel
earrings and pins, color will always evoke emotion and excitement.
Enamel has long been a way to enter color into designs without having to
supply the expensive and limited variations of precious and
semiprecious stones.
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